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You get used to cranes groaning outside your window all night long. “Smells like New Jersey,” she announces..5 billion: Final building cost, in dollars16,145,865: Square footage (largest building in the world)180: Check-in counters160,000: Square footage dedicated to retail13,720: Running feet of baggage carousel (approximate)163: Models of cell phones for sale at Arrivals Duty Free00: Price of a 27-oz.

Rémy Martin Louis XIII Cognac at Duty Free, in dollars.

As for the one-kilometer building, construction is suspended until further notice. Tonight, Dubai is a beacon of hope and 11 miles of fireworks, a place with the money, freedom and balls to make its own rules. A SKEPTICAL JOURNEYNext time you’re at a party, try telling people you’re going to Dubai. And you’re going to get to see it all with your As I click away a month’s rent for a ticket to the second-largest and most progressive of the seven United Arab Emirates, I have vague notions about the place that seem true but actually are not (booze is illegal, women get jailed for wearing pants); and others that seem preposterous, but are actually true (no holding hands in public, falcons cost 0,000, there’s a man-made archipelago called “The World” and Rod Stewart offered million for “Britain.”).

As is unmarried sex, though an infamous British couple caught in flagrante delicto a short while ago wound up being deported instead of serving their three-month jail sentence.It was in Also, unmarried sex is illegal, porn sites are blocked, cross-dressers get rounded up and jailed, criticizing the government is a no-no. Bright side: You could be male, where being gay is punishable by death. Because the PTB know that those dropping 00 per square foot on a condo with its own heli-pad don’t take kindly to being told how to live.So behind closed doors, in bars and clubs and the privacy of your own villa, anything goes. Somewhere between 25 to 30 percent of the world’s cranes are in use in Dubai. Ten days from now, I’ll be awake in my bed in Brooklyn, freaked out by the silence. As we wait on the shimmering tarmac (it’s 104 degrees) for a shuttle to Terminal 3, a woman who managed to sleep (and snore) for the full 14-hour trip sets her watch to local time and inhales deeply.The world’s most expensive hotel crowns Palm Jumeirah, the self-appointed eighth wonder of the world.You may have heard about it, this 11-square mile, billion project created by clawing up 3.2 trillion cubic feet of sand from the ocean floor and power-spraying it into the shape of an Arabian date palm. Standing at the base of the Atlantis Hotel, on the tip of Palm Jumeirah island, I can see red and white lights dotting the skyline. If word got out, someone would invariably start building something taller. In fact, work’s already begun on rival Nakheel Tower down the road. I make out the contours of the .2 billion Burj Dubai, set to be the world’s tallest free-standing building (jutting out of the world’s largest mall), somewhere in the vicinity of 2000 feet – though at this time, the final height is still a state secret.When you own and run everything, it’s cake to get stuff done.You can eliminate any obstacles to growth – taxes, labor laws, restrictions prohibiting foreigners from buying property.The story (everyone here has a version of it) goes something like this: When Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum – Crown Prince of Dubai, the man who birthed the Palm and whose family owns every other grain of sand in the emirate – saw the fireworks for Kerzner’s other, much smaller Atlantis Hotel (in the Bahamas), he demanded to see whomever was responsible.On the spot, he commissioned Long Island’s Grucci company to create the fireworks spectacle for the Palm’s debut.

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